timing marks don't line up

Flipman · 12-08-15, 03:18 PM

Hello!

I'm about to remove cylinder head on my urq -83 10v wr.
I would want to get engine to TDC before that.

But the timing marks don't line up as they should.
What could be wrong?

/Regards Emil

pics:

wopitop · 12-08-15, 04:05 PM

Timing mark on the dizzy is just an rough guide, you have to set you timing while the engine is runnig. The timing on your crack and on your cam is spot on.

ian20v · 12-08-15, 04:05 PM

I just did head job on 5 pot turbo kg,i used audi crank locking tool to get approx. tdc had to set the timing when i'd put back together as was slightly out,yours looks ok for head removal.Mine is starting first turn of the key

Hanuman · 12-08-15, 04:16 PM

Looks about right. The large embedded 0 on the flywheel is bisected by the casing. The paint marks are irrelevant.

When putting it all back together, you should have
0 mark bisected by the casing.
Cam sprocket mark approximately level with head upper face ( in the window)
The dizzy arm pointing at a very defined groove on the cap mounting face.

Flipman · 12-08-15, 04:51 PM

Okey!
Thanks a lot!

I'm just waiting for crank locking tool I have ordered.

4v6 · 12-08-15, 06:19 PM

Possible reason for marks not lining up is when the heads been skimmed as it alters the distance the belt would normally be running over so it effectively[ moves the timing a small amount.

Groundhog · 12-08-15, 07:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wopitop

Timing mark on the dizzy is just an rough guide, you have to set you timing while the engine is runnig. The timing on your crack and on your cam is spot on.

No you don't, the timing is determined by the flywheel senders and ECU, there is no 'timing' to set.

jimh · 12-08-15, 08:50 PM

That's fine.
Flywheel is spot on.
Cam wheel is correct - it can only be multiples of a whole tooth out, so it's obvious when it's wrong.

You could adjust the distributor body a little when you're done, but it won't have any effect on the timing.
The only time this would be an issue was if the distributor was out of position far enough that the rotor arm and contact points in the cap don't line up enough on full boost (full timing retard and the reason for the extra wide rotor arm tip). You'd know that as you'd get a misfire on boost.

If it was really far enough out, it would not be in the hall sensor window and would not start.

The timing is set by the ECU depending on the flywheel sensors with adjustment for load/boost, rpm & inlet air temp. The distributor only has to be roughly in position such that the hall sensor window is in range and the rotor arm & distributor contact points line up over the whole range of timing set by the ECU.

Flipman · 15-08-15, 09:05 AM

Ok ..
I have released the timing belt, and removed away all the stuff so I can remove
the cylinder head.
I just wonder what kind of bolt design is the cylinder head bolts?
I thought it was the allen / torx bolts, etc ...

wopitop · 15-08-15, 09:20 AM

It will be a 12 point socket. I think you have the M12, you can buy it at the most tool shops. Make sure it is the longer version, a short one might foul your head.

12-08-15, 04:05 PM	#3
ian20v 4 ring whore! Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Sticksville,dumfries and galloway Posts: 4,241	I just did head job on 5 pot turbo kg,i used audi crank locking tool to get approx. tdc had to set the timing when i'd put back together as was slightly out,yours looks ok for head removal.Mine is starting first turn of the key __________________ 1987 audi 200 Quattro saloon sorned,few bits to do yet. 1987 Audi 200 quattro avant sorned,getting rebuilt Daily Toyota Hilux 1999 2.4td double cab VW caddy van 1.9tdi 2010

12-08-15, 04:16 PM	#4
Hanuman Trickster Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: Heckling from the cheap seats, Phnom Penh, KoW Posts: 7,028	Looks about right. The large embedded 0 on the flywheel is bisected by the casing. The paint marks are irrelevant. When putting it all back together, you should have 0 mark bisected by the casing. Cam sprocket mark approximately level with head upper face ( in the window) The dizzy arm pointing at a very defined groove on the cap mounting face. __________________ I wish they would keep the damned Chinese away now that I can go home, so that I can enjoy Fish amok and a draught Angkor

12-08-15, 04:05 PM	#2
wopitop Newbie! Join Date: Jul 2015 Posts: 10	Timing mark on the dizzy is just an rough guide, you have to set you timing while the engine is runnig. The timing on your crack and on your cam is spot on.

12-08-15, 04:51 PM	#5
Flipman Grown up member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Sweden Posts: 76	Okey! Thanks a lot! I'm just waiting for crank locking tool I have ordered.

12-08-15, 06:19 PM	#6
4v6 Ex Member Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 5,565	Possible reason for marks not lining up is when the heads been skimmed as it alters the distance the belt would normally be running over so it effectively[ moves the timing a small amount.

12-08-15, 08:50 PM	#8
jimh Grown up member Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 122	That's fine. Flywheel is spot on. Cam wheel is correct - it can only be multiples of a whole tooth out, so it's obvious when it's wrong. You could adjust the distributor body a little when you're done, but it won't have any effect on the timing. The only time this would be an issue was if the distributor was out of position far enough that the rotor arm and contact points in the cap don't line up enough on full boost (full timing retard and the reason for the extra wide rotor arm tip). You'd know that as you'd get a misfire on boost. If it was really far enough out, it would not be in the hall sensor window and would not start. The timing is set by the ECU depending on the flywheel sensors with adjustment for load/boost, rpm & inlet air temp. The distributor only has to be roughly in position such that the hall sensor window is in range and the rotor arm & distributor contact points line up over the whole range of timing set by the ECU.

15-08-15, 09:05 AM	#9
Flipman Grown up member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Sweden Posts: 76	Ok .. I have released the timing belt, and removed away all the stuff so I can remove the cylinder head. I just wonder what kind of bolt design is the cylinder head bolts? I thought it was the allen / torx bolts, etc ...

15-08-15, 09:20 AM	#10
wopitop Newbie! Join Date: Jul 2015 Posts: 10	It will be a 12 point socket. I think you have the M12, you can buy it at the most tool shops. Make sure it is the longer version, a short one might foul your head.