CGT gearbox / clutch problem

[84CoupeGT]

Thanks Amazon, Kit, yes it was a great moment when it popped on. Can't help worrying a bit on a job like this that there will be horrible grinding noises or something when I start it up but I've done my best so fingers crossed

As you say, the rest *should* be a doddle now but I've learned that any job you suspect will take 30 mins can easily turn into hours when something goes awry. I spent an hour looking for a socket adaptor I was using to try and get the pilot bearing out with using grease. Turns out I'd thrown it in the bin with a greasy rag I'd used to wipe my hands...

[BackintheFold]

You should be able to test the clutch operation before reinstalling everything. I’d suggest you do in case anything needs tweaking!

[84CoupeGT]

Good point! I suppose once the new clutch cable is in I can do that. I did notice that the clutch lever can now be pulled up by hand for a short distance, presumably until the release bearing contacts the pressure plate fingers. Previously it couldn't be moved by hand at all, so I guess the release bearing was in constant contact (which I presume/hope is an improvement!!).

Cheers

[K Simmonds]

Originally Posted by BackintheFold

You should be able to test the clutch operation before reinstalling everything. I’d suggest you do in case anything needs tweaking!

That's really good advice and shouldn't take long as it's cable operated, no pissing about having to bleed a hydraulic system, that's one of the first jobs I do once a box is back on along with fitting the gear linkage...

Even now after having done dozens of clutches I'm always a little worried until I've heard it running and operating again, I'm sure it be fine mate... As long as the car is really secure on the axle stands you can start the engine to check the operation and that the drive shaft flanges are turning. I always do that with a car on a lift before bolting everything else back on.

[84CoupeGT]

You're absolutely right. I was focussed on getting the job completed but a quick test could potentially be a big time saver if I've made an error! The car is on ramps at the front and stands at the rear, it's pretty secure so I've got no issues with starting it up where it is. Cheers!

[84CoupeGT]

Finally got down and finished getting everything back together after the clutch job on Xmas eve! The most time consuming bits were fitting the new clutch cable (for those who don't know it's routed around a pulley right up behind the pedals just before it goes through the firewall, very awkward to get to especially with car up on ramps!), and refitting the exhaust and driveshafts (couldn't find a way of getting the torque wrench on the off side).

The good news after a test drive (about 20 miles) is that the clutch works perfectly - no crunching, vibrating or difficulty getting into gear as before, in fact the gear change is very smooth. The new clutch is a bit stiffer than the old one, a bit too heavy for my liking but it must just be the new pressure plate springs are tougher. I understand that's often the way with aftermarket ones, hopefully it will ease up a bit, but it's not too bad and certainly liveable-with.

The bad news is that car isn't running right again... Hesitating/stumbling on acceleration/revving the engine, in fact if the throttle is opened more than about a quarter for a few seconds, it dies completely - very much like it was before the warm up regulator rebuild. I suspect it might be the plunger in the fuel distributor sticking as it hasn't been run for several months. Possibly combined with it being low on fuel. Will investigate in the morning and redo fuel volume, flow and pressure tests if necessary.

Also, one of my repaired headlight casing brackets has broken so one of them can now tip backwards slightly, resulting in an annoying flickering light beam and probably why I was getting flashed by cars coming the other way on the test drive

Pleased with the clutch job though, even if it must have been one of the longest in history (started in October!)

[84CoupeGT]

Having driven around 500 miles since the clutch replacement, including a 280 mile trip a couple of weekends ago, I'm becoming a bit concerned that something isn't quite right with it still. The clutch has always felt stiff, I was hoping it would feel better after the replacement but if anything it felt even heavier than before. I spoke to the clutch parts supplier and they reassured me it was normal for a new pressure plate to be very stiff at first and it should loosen up after a few hundred miles or so (this seems to contradict other information I have found online which suggests pressure plates tend to become stiffer as they get very old?!).

Anyway, as I mentioned, the pedal feel is very heavy and has an annoying creaky feeling as though a spring under tension is being released. It seems to also get heavier near the bottom of travel. I have also noticed that the new clutch cable I installed at the same time as the clutch, now has a couple of kinks in the outer lining where the structure beneath the plastic has failed.

I know these cars are known for having heavy clutches and eating cables every 30-40k miles, but I'm sure they weren't like that from the factory and even though the RHD set up isn't the greatest design, surely it shouldn't be this heavy and looking like it will need another new cable after 500 miles?!

I did lubricate the over centre spring and pulley at the time of replacing the clutch, but didn't remove the entire pedal assembly as it looked a bit of a nightmare... The clutch lever seemed to operate quite nicely with the gearbox out of the car and I lubed up the lever/shaft (although the bearing around the shaft was quite worn on the opposite side to the lever, I couldn't find a new one). With the gearbox back in the car though, the lever cannot be pulled up by hand, not sure if that is normal?!

Anyway, I thought I'd post up here in case anyone has any experience of these or any ideas of next steps... I'm thinking I'll try taking the clutch pedal apart plus try to get some lubricant (graphite?) inside the cable in case that helps... Plus a new cable... If not, I guess I'm looking at taking the gearbox off again?!!

Also, if anyone knows of a source for clutch cables, please let me know as I can't find them (part no. is 812 721 335 AG).

Cheers

[Hanuman]

Is/was the clutch pedal smooth in action when the clutch wasn’t connected? Could you be feeling impingement in the mechanism once it’s under load?

https://audi.7zap.com/en/rdw/audi+co...8/7/721-76000/
(It doesn’t specify whether left hand drive.)

There’s a white plastic return spring in a sleeved capsule which breaks up with age, and makes horrible squeaking, creaking noises. It’s normally lubed with white grease. It’s item 40 on the hydraulic version. It’s shown on the cable pedal assembly, but I don’t know if it’s actually there.

I can imagine a little sideways pressure, courtesy of worn bushing, and a few other cumulative wear issues giving some roughness.

[84CoupeGT]

I haven't disconnected the cable to try that yet, but it's definitely a good starting point, thank you. My gut feeling is that the creaking is coming from the pedal over centre spring but the stiffness is the pressure plate itself, it's an aftermarket one of course as original ones are impossible to find now as far as I can tell.

I have found the springs available though for relatively little money so may try replacing that if the creak is still there after disconnecting the cable.

Not sure what I can do about the stiffness though if it is the clutch itself. I wonder how difficult changing to a hydraulic system would be!! Probably quite a pain I imagine.

Will report back when I've had chance to have another look and investigate further.

Cheers

[K Simmonds]

It depends on the type of clutch but some can feel heavy when new, however that isn't normally the case with Audi's, I've always found a new clutch to be lighter after fitting one. The last one I did on an RS2 was so light I convinced there was something wrong with it, however the first road test went fine and all was well.

That said I've never done a clutch on an Audi cable opperated system, the only VAG ones I've done have been on MK2 Golfs and Scciroco's and they opperate quite differntly to an Audi system. They don't have realese baring, just a long rod that goes through the lenght of the box and straight up the centre of the input shaft to a plate that opperates the fingers on the presure plate.

If it's cable opperated I'd check that system, it could be that you old clutch was so wankered that the new one is heavier and now highlighting a problem with the cable or a pivot point.