Car will not start - 90 Quattro Type85 B2 - Page 3

quattrostyle · 24-01-16, 08:09 PM

I never trust the timing marks on these engines. Just do as Stuart and I suggested then you are sure everything is set up correctly.

Also when it still does not start try adjusting the CO mixture screw slightly.

Steve · 20-02-16, 06:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by quattrostyle

I never trust the timing marks on these engines. Just do as Stuart and I suggested then you are sure everything is set up correctly.

Also when it still does not start try adjusting the CO mixture screw slightly.

Finally got a day on the car. Car now all set up to timing marks but no different from before.

This is what I can tell you so far:

1. Flywheel '0' marking can be seen in bell housing.
2. Distributor rotor arm pointing to timing mark.
3. Camshaft pulley on the correct way and timing mark can be seen through rear cambelt cover.
4. Fuel pump primes when ignition put on.
5. Fuel on spark plugs.
6. Plugs sparking.
7. Plug leads on the correct way.
8. Can not see any cracks in the rubber boot, although the big hose underneath the car is rotted and holed.

Unable to alter CO mixture as I need to go an buy a long 3mm allen key.

How easy is it to pull the injectors out on these engine?

Steve · 20-02-16, 06:26 PM

Going to have a look at these tomorrow:

KV and possible more engines, fuel filters;

1-Fine filter in the tank,can be holed with a coat hanger and not really needed
2-Pre electric pump inline filter, can be cleaned and re used
3-Main canister filter after the pump, renew evey few years
4-Fine filter, from the main feed to the fuel distubutor,banjo fitting
5-Fine filter, banjo on the WUR,feed from the top of the fuel distributor to the wur

Sandro · 20-02-16, 10:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve

Finally got a day on the car. Car now all set up to timing marks but no different from before.

This is what I can tell you so far:

1. Flywheel '0' marking can be seen in bell housing.
2. Distributor rotor arm pointing to timing mark.
3. Camshaft pulley on the correct way and timing mark can be seen through rear cambelt cover.
4. Fuel pump primes when ignition put on.
5. Fuel on spark plugs.
6. Plugs sparking.
7. Plug leads on the correct way.
8. Can not see any cracks in the rubber boot, although the big hose underneath the car is rotted and holed.

Unable to alter CO mixture as I need to go an buy a long 3mm allen key.

How easy is it to pull the injectors out on these engine?

so did You tried to turn arround all distributor thing for 180deg?

Steve · 21-02-16, 08:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sandro

so did You tried to turn arround all distributor thing for 180deg?

Yes I did. The position of the rotor arm was out by 180% but I believe the correct position should be pointing down at around 7 o'clock?

Two pictures. First shows how it was and second, how it is now.

Sandro · 21-02-16, 12:39 PM

Sorry, I'll ask again, did You get first cylinder on DTC and checked if rotor arm is on position for ignation on first cylinder?

Steve · 21-02-16, 07:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sandro

Sorry, I'll ask again, did You get first cylinder on DTC and checked if rotor arm is on position for ignation on first cylinder?

Yes I did. I also checked the leads and everything is connected in the right order i.e. 1,2,4,5,3.

What I did notice today was that the car has had a brand new fuel pump and fuel filter. Although I notice there is a pre-filter from the tank to the fuel pump. Can this be self cleaned or does it need replacing?

quattrostyle · 21-02-16, 07:53 PM

If there is petrol I would not worry about the small fuel filter now. CO mixture screw is very important and sensitive on these engines, so yes get the allen key to be able to adjust it.

Also you can try the following:
- remove the big rubber intake hose
- lift the metering flap slightly
- try to start it and play with the throttle while starting.

It doesn't tell you much but it might start

Getting the injectors out can be hard, they are held in by rubber o-rings that will go hard making them difficult to pop out. Also there should be a rail making sure that the injectors can never pop out by themselves but that is easy to remove.
Get new o-rings before you try to get the injectors out.

GBT4 · 09-04-16, 05:31 PM

Is the beast running yet? I am going to be following this as I will be attempting to start a car after 15 years without a start!!!!

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

Steve · 12-04-16, 06:27 PM

Shameful as it may be, I've not been near it since......other than to walk past it to get in the SWB car.

Going to have a serious think this weekend about what to do with it. Restore as standard, put a 20VT in it or just get rid and concentrate on my other cars.

24-01-16, 08:09 PM	#21
quattrostyle 4 ring whore! Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Posts: 2,188	I never trust the timing marks on these engines. Just do as Stuart and I suggested then you are sure everything is set up correctly. Also when it still does not start try adjusting the CO mixture screw slightly.

20-02-16, 06:26 PM	#23
Steve Grown up member Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 355	Going to have a look at these tomorrow: KV and possible more engines, fuel filters; 1-Fine filter in the tank,can be holed with a coat hanger and not really needed 2-Pre electric pump inline filter, can be cleaned and re used 3-Main canister filter after the pump, renew evey few years 4-Fine filter, from the main feed to the fuel distubutor,banjo fitting 5-Fine filter, banjo on the WUR,feed from the top of the fuel distributor to the wur

21-02-16, 12:39 PM	#26
Sandro Grown up member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Chelmsford Posts: 651	Sorry, I'll ask again, did You get first cylinder on DTC and checked if rotor arm is on position for ignation on first cylinder?

21-02-16, 07:53 PM	#28
quattrostyle 4 ring whore! Classic Audi Club Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Posts: 2,188	If there is petrol I would not worry about the small fuel filter now. CO mixture screw is very important and sensitive on these engines, so yes get the allen key to be able to adjust it. Also you can try the following: - remove the big rubber intake hose - lift the metering flap slightly - try to start it and play with the throttle while starting. It doesn't tell you much but it might start Getting the injectors out can be hard, they are held in by rubber o-rings that will go hard making them difficult to pop out. Also there should be a rail making sure that the injectors can never pop out by themselves but that is easy to remove. Get new o-rings before you try to get the injectors out.

09-04-16, 05:31 PM	#29
GBT4 Grown up member Join Date: Feb 2016 Posts: 131	Is the beast running yet? I am going to be following this as I will be attempting to start a car after 15 years without a start!!!! Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

12-04-16, 06:27 PM	#30
Steve Grown up member Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 355	Shameful as it may be, I've not been near it since......other than to walk past it to get in the SWB car. Going to have a serious think this weekend about what to do with it. Restore as standard, put a 20VT in it or just get rid and concentrate on my other cars.