If you have a timing belt change due on a 20vT you must read this...

[Phil Payne]

[quote=Audiden;141978]This thread makes me think I should do the cambelt change on my 90 20v myself, rather than letting the local garage have a go at it... Torque wrenches of the required force seem rather expensive though.[quote]

Some years ago our US friends used to organise timing-belt-a-thons.

Yeah - you need a crank locking tool and a monster torque wrench - but only for seconds. Getting in there and getting out again takes the time - if there are ten of you, the outlay to bring in the gear is peanuts and sharing it is not an issue.

Organise it here - I'm sure the mods will provide necessary support.

[Martc]

As if by magic Phil Payne appears....

Its all gone a bit Mr Ben

[TheCrispyNoodle]

Thanks for all the info and advice. I'm hoping I'll have some good news to post soon....

[urS6]

Originally Posted by Phil Payne

Nice to see myself debated.

A pleasure!

Both are right about the crank pulley using and not using a Woodruff key. On some it is machined in the pulley and an integral part of it, on others it is pressed in and is therefore techically a Woodruff key - although you can't remove it.

Ah - thanks for that - never seen the woodruff version.

As far as I'm aware trhe nominal torque at the bolt for all I5s is 332 lb ft, 450 Nm. But the 10/93 Technical Service Bulletin for the ABY and AAN engines specifies 150Nm + 180°.

Probably much easier to achieve without special tools, but maybe not so accurate?

DO NOT EVER LOKTITE THIS BOLT!

It's hard enough to get off as it is - but the moron who put blue Loktite on an Audi 200 once caused half a dozen of us a day's work. It eventually came off at 820 Nm with three people standing on the engine and a serious ratchet cargo tie wrapped around the left engine mount to stop it shredding.

Audi suggests a thin film of anti-corrosion compound on the mating faces.

Now, I regularly use blue Loctite on this - I don't use it on the entire bolt, just the last three threads to enter the crankshaft, more to prevent corrosion than anything else. And five or six years later, it comes undone just fine.

Here's what Loctite say about Loctite Blue:

Loctite® Threadlocker Blue 242® is designed for the locking and sealing of threaded fasteners which require normal disassembly with standard hand tools. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration. Loctite® Threadlocker Blue 242® is particularly suited for applications on less active substrates such as stainless steel and plated surfaces, where disassembly is required for servicing.

Here's the extract from the Bentley for the S6:

Fig. 11 Removing and installing vibration damper
Tightening torque
- With spanner 2079: 350 Nm (258 ft lb)
- Without spanner 2079: 450 Nm (332 ft lb)
- Use brace 3256.
- Coat threads and contact surfaces of bolt head with sealing paste AMV 188 001 02.

AMV 188 001 02 is more commonly used as a gasket sealant rather than a thread locker as far as I can tell, and is somewhere between $50 and $100.

Paul

[TheCrispyNoodle]

It's running....

£1245 lighter of pocket.

9 valves replaced plus all the usual stuff associated with having had head, inlet man, turbo etc off.

Will post parts prices later (all from TPS I believe) for those of you contemplating timing belt changes.

Only problem I noticed is boost gauge permanently reading 1.0 and car seems a little slower (might just be me) - is this likely to be something simple eg line to ecu not replaced or something I should give it back them for? Don't really want the car back in the shop again if I can avoid it.

[Martc]

Originally Posted by TheCrispyNoodle

It's running....

£1245 lighter of pocket.

9 valves replaced plus all the usual stuff associated with having had head, inlet man, turbo etc off.

Will post parts prices later (all from TPS I believe) for those of you contemplating timing belt changes.

Only problem I noticed is boost gauge permanently reading 1.0 and car seems a little slower (might just be me) - is this likely to be something simple eg line to ecu not replaced or something I should give it back them for? Don't really want the car back in the shop again if I can avoid it.

Good news - another one back on the road

[TheCrispyNoodle]

Originally Posted by TheCrispyNoodle

It's running....

£1245 lighter of pocket.

9 valves replaced plus all the usual stuff associated with having had head, inlet man, turbo etc off.

Will post parts prices later (all from TPS I believe) for those of you contemplating timing belt changes.

Only problem I noticed is boost gauge permanently reading 1.0 and car seems a little slower (might just be me) - is this likely to be something simple eg line to ecu not replaced or something I should give it back them for? Don't really want the car back in the shop again if I can avoid it.

I fixed the boost issue. The 2 rubber hoses from the back of the inlet manifold to the ecu had not been replaced. Put both of those back on properly and low and behold 0.6 bar at idle and max 2.1 when flooring it. And it clearly was a lot slower yesterday without the boost, I certainly wasn't imaginging it, but it's hard to tell when you've not driven it for 3 weeks.

Next question - the fan seems to be running continously from cold start - is this possibly due to the high ambient temps in the UK (computer reading 26 degrees) or is there a temperature sensor not wired? Both water temp sensors were replaced during the engine rebuild...

[AAN 5pot]

COULD THE SQEEKING/CHIRPING NOISE FROM THE FRONT OF GODZILLA RELATE TO THIS FAILURE?????????????