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Old 17-10-21, 09:41 AM   #21
BackintheFold
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Is there a choice?
I suppose I can Cut all of the pad except for the bits that go around the hog rings, but that might burn out the small amount of wiring going through there.

I’ll understand a bit better when I take the leather cover off, but I thought the wire that holds the leather to the wire in the seat is in a loop of material that is attached to the leather.
No?
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Old 17-10-21, 10:09 AM   #22
Duffy3074
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I can’t speak to the specific internals of the Audi seat but we’re not talking about a gazillion volts or internals of the sun temperatures here.
As long as you leave a circuit around the whole pad it will heat up quite happily and evenly. the bar usually just affects the centre section of the pad, there’s usually plenty of room to run the necessary pad around it without any problem on the half dozen seats I’ve done.
To reassure you I spent time with my heat measuring gun and, outwith a very small variance in temperature (undetectable to a jean clad buttock) I ended up with a cozy and evenly heated seat.
It’s one of these jobs that’s easy to overthink

Last edited by Duffy3074; 17-10-21 at 10:11 AM.
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Old 17-10-21, 10:20 AM   #23
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The barvgoes the whole way across the seat pad. Not the bolsters but the heated pad isn’t wide enough for those anyway.
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Old 17-10-21, 10:25 AM   #24
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What do the instructions that come with your kit say to do?
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Old 17-10-21, 12:31 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duffy3074 View Post
What do the instructions that come with your kit say to do?


Good point.
Not here yet.
Will confirm when I can.



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Old 02-06-23, 08:59 AM   #26
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Did you ever finish this job?
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Old 02-06-23, 09:43 AM   #27
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Oh whoops! Yes.
The eBay ones wouldn’t work, due to how they are made as one big element but I managed to find an old ur element that worked and slotted it in. It’s shaped like an “E” and fits down the side of the seat, with the elements slipping in to the sections of the seat.
Phil Payne’s instructions are correct, but make no sense until you have fitted one.
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