Over fueling

[sinbin5t]

Originally Posted by Hanuman

Were these parts replaced due to the rich running issue? Or did the rich running occur after the parts swap?

The parts were replaced as they had been damaged.

[Hanuman]

So the rich running has occurred AFTER the parts were replaced?

[garry1]

I think it's time to change the fuel metering head
Also make sure plugs are clean and gapped correctly
Also check all vacuume pipes incase one has come off or parishes

[sinbin5t]

Originally Posted by garry1

I think it's time to change the fuel metering head
Also make sure plugs are clean and gapped correctly
Also check all vacuume pipes incase one has come off or parishes

Hiya Garry
Just don't want to damage the new one, new plugs are in and new leads on but as for vac pipes i don't even know what to look for mate daft as i am

[garry1]

Vacuum pipes are important on the 5t
Might have a map for them under the bonnet of the car
Will get a photo of it and post it up for you
I think grit is sticking the metering head from slowing down the fuel being used
And it's flooding it's self
Could even be the air mixture as it was hanging by a thread only
All you could do is adjust it back in and see if will run any better

[sinbin5t]

Originally Posted by garry1

Vacuum pipes are important on the 5t
Might have a map for them under the bonnet of the car
Will get a photo of it and post it up for you
I think grit is sticking the metering head from slowing down the fuel being used
And it's flooding it's self
Could even be the air mixture as it was hanging by a thread only
All you could do is adjust it back in and see if will run any better

Thanks Garry.
The idle screw is back in and Hanuman will tell me how much to adjust it by each time i think, i am wondering if the warm up regulator could over fuel the car too, got to be honest i am just over it all now.

[Hanuman]

As mentioned elsewhere. If you suspect that there's been some serious contamination in the fuel system, or otherwise compromised, I'd be running fuel through the lines, and checking to see if there's any debris coming through, before lobbing a more expensive bit of kit on the front.

[Hanuman]

This is WR, but the basics are roughly the same.
Under the yellow cap, the idle screw.
Turn clockwise, reduce idle speed. Turn to far, and no idle.
Turn anti-clockwise, increase idle speed. Turn too far, and the engine may well stall, along with suddenly having a big brass screw in your hand.



Close up of the mixture screw. Or rather the tube that gets to it. Hence using a long handled 3mm Allen key.


Mixture adjustment. If it's really sooty, gross adjustments of a couple of turns. Fine adjustments ¼ turns.


Another thought.
If that was what occurred with the fuel system, how is the engine oil?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[vag]

WUR ! Presuming it has one, if the fuel lines are full of crud it blocks the regulator

[sinbin5t]

Originally Posted by Hanuman

As mentioned elsewhere. If you suspect that there's been some serious contamination in the fuel system, or otherwise compromised, I'd be running fuel through the lines, and checking to see if there's any debris coming through, before lobbing a more expensive bit of kit on the front.

All taken on board