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Registered
Members: 19,821 | Total Threads: 40,098 | Total Posts: 471,150 Currently Active Users: 9047 (0 members and 9047 guests) Welcome to our newest member, BuddyInons |
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#11 |
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Grown up member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 116
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Reckon I'd better check my CV's then.....
I did rebuild then all when they went on, but that was a while ago (and they are pretty "original" looking) Doh! |
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#12 |
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making wooden things
Classic Audi Club Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: cow land
Posts: 8,156
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Aye, I reckon I've got the same problem on one of my 100s too, same kind of clunk, always blamed the gearbox mounts, although you can see nothing wrong with them. Is yours the v8 conversion?
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#13 |
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Grown up member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 116
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Yup, been chewing the original saloon transmission up with V8 torque!
Not been running any boost yet as the clutch is toasted (sad face) Had a rummage under the car this afternoon and it looks like the outer CV's have most of the play in them: still the pants small bearing FWD style. I did split a CV boot last year which prompted me to rebuild all 4 shafts (repack and new boots- same old joints though!) Might have to bite the bullet and get some new ones..... Shame, as I'm planning to swap the gearbox for an 01E and will have to fiddle with driveshafts and joints then too! Or I could just ignore it a bit longer! |
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#14 |
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making wooden things
Classic Audi Club Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: cow land
Posts: 8,156
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I read a thing last night saying that any 'new' shafts or CVs are likely reconditioned, just with new bearings stuck in them. He said the body of the joints are so hard that its just about impossible to destroy them ( unless you re-grind them) and Re-con parts are just re-ground with oversized bearings stuck in them, which don't last any time at all with bigger power, according to him. Cut into softer metal maybe?? Dunno. He said he's only ever bought 'new', OEM, which have reused good shafts and new CV joints on them, or just bought new OEM, CV joints and stuck them on himself.
cost is the question, and whether he's right, of course.![]() |
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#15 |
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Grown up member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 116
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Hmmm,
Sounds a good tip: all the joints I'm using at the moment are original, just repacked (I hate driveshaft grease, but somehow have used a whole tub of it!) so there might be somehting in it! OEM ones probably last quite well if you can catch them before the grease falls out fo the inevitable boot split! Can't remember the last time I bought a "new" joint, and still have a load from a RWD Jetta I had before the Audi - that seemed to be fine with re-packed joints. THink I even used some of them when I rebuilt all the Audi ones when it came apart (I recall one or two were a bit stiff) Am thinking that the cheap outer joints on ebay may be a false economy (even if I'll replace them in the short term...) although for £10 I might give it a punt => To be fair I'm only on 7" wheels and the lack of traction should protect the drivetrain (although I thought that about the clutch!) |
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#16 |
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making wooden things
Classic Audi Club Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: cow land
Posts: 8,156
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Dunno, I'm no expert on anything, the guy was a mech and had spent a long time working for audi in the past, but it was an American forum, maybe they get Mexican parts or something! But he said the grade of steel is unbreakable, I take it its the bearings that wear? I'd have thou the opposite.
how does packing them with new grease take up all that slack in the joint?It was specifically 2.7T/allroad joints he was talking about, and that the OE manufacture didn't make any available to the open market, hence the need to buy them from audi. Maybe a load of balix! Who knows. ![]() |
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