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Old 06-06-12, 09:24 PM   #31
msh
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That lower one is the original VAG 2xxx tool?
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Old 07-06-12, 12:29 AM   #32
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That lower one is the original VAG 2xxx tool?
Yes. I've never bothered with it - I just use a huge 3/4" Norbar industrial torque wrench set to 450 Nm (with the 2079, it's a mere 350 Nm). Check the torques for your engine - they may be different.

The crank-locking tools (2084 or 3256 depending on engine) are invaluable.

Here are a couple of related links:
http://www.s2-audi.co.uk/tech_articles/useful_tools.htm
http://www.vag-data.com/audi100A6/Power_unit/AAR/A.en-GB.4A-MM-MMAAR.wi__20832238[1].html

There are lots of timing belt R&R writeups on the Internet. Anything by Scott Mockry, Fred Munro or Dave Forgie is generally excellent.
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Old 07-06-12, 02:26 AM   #33
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Nice one glad you have it running. Give Pete Reeve at quattro corner a call he should be able to source all your parts in future if needed.

http://www.quattrocorner.com/
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Old 07-06-12, 07:00 AM   #34
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Yep you got it it's 2079 and 2084 (that right for the kk?!) also found 3034 to remove idler as opposed to levering it. Ok mate I'll give him a call at somepoint :-)
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Old 07-06-12, 07:47 AM   #35
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As said, the 2079 doesn't really get used unless the car is on a lift. There's no room for the tool and the torque wrench.

I had one but sold it as it didn't get used
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Old 07-06-12, 08:23 AM   #36
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Yup I know that as when I moved belt around to get it running I just used a socket the other day plus these tools are free, all I'm wondering is 2084 correct for locking the KK crank pulley
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Old 07-06-12, 08:29 AM   #37
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Yup I know that as when I moved belt around to get it running I just used a socket the other day plus these tools are free, all I'm wondering is 2084 correct for locking the KK crank pulley
Yes - I used to use the 2084 on the KK in my old 80q. The U-shaped end fits around a very solid aluminium casting bolted to the engine (snub mount?). Be prepared to use over 1000 Nm undoing it depending on when it was last done and what kind of paste was used over what region of the bolt.
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Old 07-06-12, 12:48 PM   #38
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Ok cheers mate I have a 5.5 foot 3/4 drive snap on breaker bar hope that should do it lol

Found the other tool anyway



And this lot just turned up :-) gunna be a busy evening!



Think I better start a project thread :-D



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Old 07-06-12, 04:10 PM   #39
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Ok cheers mate I have a 5.5 foot 3/4 drive snap on breaker bar hope that should do it lol.
Last one I did a few months ago, I used a 6 foot scaffold pole over the end of a 3/4" breaker bar. It was sticking up at an angle of about 30 degrees from the vertical, and I was dangling off the end - I reckon that meant that I was exerting a torque of 1000 Nm. It wouldn't shift until I started bouncing up and down. Then there was an almighty bang and I suspected that I had sheared the crankshaft! I hadn't - that's just the noise it made when it came undone.

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Found the other tool anyway

And this lot just turned up :-) gunna be a busy evening!.
That's the 3256 (for later engines with the different harmonic balancers), the 2079 (that most people do without) and the 2084 for the early engines.

I presume the jig on the bottom left is the idler wheel puller - not seen one before - can't remember how easy it was to get the wheel off without the special tool which probably means it was easy!

If you do all that in an evening, I'll be impressed!

Paul
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