I think so, I was reading the original thread before the server's brain turned inside out!

Must be an earth or feed to the starter problem. Mechanic should find it, you'd hope.

I have the same problem on my type 44, suspect it is the control module that leaces windows and stuff working when switched off but should shut down when car is locked.
I haven't looked too far into it but if i disconnect the battery if the car is being left it's fine, if left connected it could drain overnight or not, depending what mood it's in.

I mentioned on another thread a while ago about a similar battery drain on my Audi 80. Turned out to be the central locking circuit. I pulled the fuse and the problem went away.

and some Bosch 5 years; batteries they do fail, or have a cell that isn't up to the job(QA issue I reckon ! )
Do you have a multi meter? Another good tool to have as you just put it across the terminals and see what the voltage is , 13+ is good under 12 is not !
When it gets a bit warmer I'd also undo, clean up, grease all the solenoid and starter terminals to make sure there's no voltage drop there. It could well be a series of 'small' issue that are all adding up to loss of volts.

Quick update...or not...
Garage still not picked up my car, feeling pretty miserable right now, not to mention p'd off, esp. in view of the fact that 'if' this is a power drain issue then they were suppose to have sorted this out during Nov 2013, but instead they have seemingly side-tracked the real issue by fitting new battery, coil pack and starter motor, well three starter motors now! Also seems like they are trying to avoid getting it in to repair it now by fobbing me off with feeble excuses...not happy!

As for central locking, fuse already pulled since I also have issue with pump running on when locking/unlocking using c.locking.
As for disconnecting battery, not really viable due to alarm/immobilisor: have had two attempted thefts previously.
Re other suggestions, will respond asap, but thanks to all of you! ;)

Someone suggested joining the AA/RAC/ similar organisation. I know its more financial outlay, but generally these chaps /maybe ladies, who work for these organisations are professional and helpful. Perhaps they will at least get you started and then you could drop off the car at your garage for trouble shooting altho' by the sound of it , they are letting you down badly. Hope you get better luck soon.

I'd say they have done exactly that. A new battery, and a big bill to demonstrate a fix. 'The car is old, therefore it must have developed another fault since' approach to customer service.

How old is the alarm, and is it well installed? There's dozens of stories of alarms with installation issues. Don't discount this from the excessive drain issue. Also- it is quite likely a placebo, more than a deterrent.


Happens when the vacuum lines are not sealed.
Suspect perished diaphragms in the locking actuators in cars of this age.
The pump runs on until it either locks the doors normally if all is working, or times out after about 30seconds if there is a leak.
It's relatively easy to isolate the lines to each door, to establish which one is the cause. Start accumulating spares from scrappers.

I have a nice battery charger from Halfords- RAC orange thing. Does a nice job, not too pricy. Compact. Bought it out of simple need.

My old Booster/charger which I have had for going on 25years, also Halfords supplied.

I have a really nice Fluke DMM (digital Multi meter) in my engineering toolkit. However, I bought a simple Maplins one for my dad a few winters back, at not much cost. Cheap enough, and good enough to measure volts, continuity, etc.

OK do you have any dedicated Motor electricians in your area? If so why not go direct and exclude a seemingly not overly helpful garage?

We can all fix cars by steadily replacing one part after another, without running proper tests, and eventually fix it ) possibly) but the cost...........:nonod:

.........cheers Frank !

:tup: